http://www.twincities.com/columnists/ci_28878641/nicholas-kristof-fake-meat-revolution
Nicholas Kristof: The (fake) meat revolutionBy Nicholas KristofPOSTED: 09/28/2015
If only meat weren't so delicious! Sure, meat may pave the way to a heart attack.
Yes, factory farms torture animals. Indeed, producing a single hamburger patty
requires more water than two weeks of showers. But for those of us who are weak willed,
there's nothing like a juicy burger.
Ah, but that's changing.
A revolution is unfolding in the food world, resulting in the first alternatives to meat that
taste like the real thing. Veggie burgers used to seem like a blend of tofu and cardboard,
but in the last few years food scientists have come up with first-rate faux chicken strips and
beef crumbles.
It will be awhile before we're fooled by a fake sirloin steak, but scientists think they'll
eventually get there. And before long you'll walk down the meat aisle of your supermarket
and see plant-based "meat," even leaking "blood." These meat alternatives could end up
being cheaper than real meat. Buyers won't just be vegans but also carnivores simply
looking for healthy, sustainable, cheap food.
So look out. If the alternatives to meat are tasty, healthier, cheaper, better for the environment
and pose fewer ethical challenges, the result may be a revolution in the human diet.
"The next couple of years will be exciting ones," says Joseph D. Puglisi, a Stanford University
professor of structural biology who is working on meat alternatives. "We can use a broad
range of plant protein sources and create a palette of textures and tastes -- for example, jerky,
cured meats, sausage, pork.
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" "The true challenge will be to recreate more complex pieces of meat that are the pinnacle
of the meat industry," he added. "I believe that plausible, good-tasting steaks and pork loins
are only a matter of time." Puglisi is advising Beyond Meat, a startup that is a leader in the field,
with investments from Bill Gates and both Biz Stone and Ev Williams of Twitter fame, not to
mention Kleiner Perkins Caufield & Byers, the venture capital firm that backed Google and
Amazon. Beyond Meat says its sales are doubling each year."We're really focused on the
mainstream," said Ethan Brown, the founder of Beyond Meat, over a lunch of fake chili,
meatballs and hamburgers. It was a banquet of the bogus.
Brown, 44, is deeply concerned by climate change and spent eight years in a company making
hydrogen fuel cells. But he read that livestock cause more greenhouse gases than the entire
transportation industry, and he wondered if he shouldn't focus more on food.
He came across two University of Missouri scientists who had figured out how to realign plant
fibers into something more like meat, and began working with them. Brown founded Beyond
Meat in 2009, and Whole Foods helped the company develop imitation chicken strips that
were its first product.
At the beginning of 2013, its products were in 360 stores; now they are found in 7,500, and
will soon be in Wal-Marts as well. Beyond Meat is aiming to get its products on pizzas and
in fast-food restaurants and is targeting the average consumer.
"We want to create the next great American meat company," Brown says. "That's the dream."
One advantage is health. Beyond Meat's best-selling product, the Beast Burger, is loaded
with protein, vitamins, antioxidants and Omega-3s. The disadvantage, alas, is that it still
tastes a bit too virtuous.
Mock chicken and beef crumbles are triumphs when mixed in other foods (Whole Foods
once inadvertently swapped real curried chicken salad with fake curried chicken salad,
and no one noticed for two days). But if I were a cow, I might be a bit embarrassed
by Beyond Meat's meatballs and Beast Burger.
Moreover, prices are still a bit higher than real meat.
But both taste and price are likely to improve in the next few years, and other companies
are also making great progress. One of Beyond Meat's rivals is Impossible Foods, founded
by a Stanford University biochemist, Patrick O. Brown, and there is an explosion of research
in this field today.
The mainstream food industry isn't saying much publicly. But recently released documents
from the American Egg Board, a quasi-governmental body, show it regarded Hampton
Creek's egg-free "Just Mayo" spread as a "major threat." In one internal email, an Egg
Board executive jokingly suggests hiring a hit man to deal with Hampton Creek.
My take is that the optimal approach to food, for health and ethical reasons, may be
vegetarianism. But the average American still consumes close to half a pound of meat a day,
so a large-scale impact requires providing options for the ambivalent or weak willed among
us who can't quite make the leap.
And if I can still enjoy a juicy burger now and then, while boosting my health, helping the
environment and avoiding the brutalizing of farm animals, hey, I'm in!
Nicholas Kristof writes a column for the New York Times, 620 Eighth Ave., New York, NY 10018. He's at Facebook.com/Kristof and Twitter.com/NickKristof
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1. Meat Consumption Is Declining
More and more people are eating less meat or ditching it altogether in favor
of plant-based foods. In fact, over the past 10 years, American meat consumption
has declined by 10 percent!
in 2007. That’s 400 million individuals who were spared a lifetime of
unimaginable suffering.
2. More Millennials Are Vegetarian
More millennials are vegetarian than members of any previous generation.
say they are ‘faithful vegetarians,’ compared with 4 percent of Gen X’ers and
1 percent of baby boomers.”
behind the growing number of veg options at fast-casual restaurants!
3. Market for Vegan Foods Is Growing
In the past decade, the retail market for vegetarian foods has
doubled to $1.6 billion!
alternative protein sources, including meat alternatives, which it claims
are “poised to accelerate, potentially claiming up to a third of the
protein market by 2054.”
4. Millions Are Being Invested
Private investors are putting millions into food startups like
Beyond Meat,
which had Microsoft mogul Bill Gates singing its praises,
richest businessman, Li Ka-Shing, along with a $23 million investment.
5. Environmental Awareness Is Increasing
Animal agriculture is an extremely inefficient and resource-intensive
way to produce food for the growing human population. It pollutes our
environment while consuming huge quantities of water, grain, petroleum,
pesticides, and drugs.
Thanks to life-changing films like
Cowspiracy and big-name environmentalists
of the serious environmental consequences of factory farming.
6. National Chains Are Offering Vegan Options
More and more companies are realizing the increasing popularity of
vegan foods and are offering humane vegan options.
Just this year, White Castle
unveiled its first-ever veggie slider,
TCBY
announced a delicious vegan frozen yogurt flavor, Ikea began
offering a vegan version of its classic Swedish meatballs, and
Ben & Jerry’s
revealed that the company is working on dairy-free ice cream.
--
The writing is on the wall: factory farming’s days are numbered.
You can join the growing number of people who are taking a stand for
animals, the environment, and their own health by transitioning to a plant-based diet.
Click here to order your FREE Vegetarian Starter Guide.